The Joys of Traveling – A Few Observations (Mar 7, 2015)

We’ve all heard it said that people should travel when they’re young. I always took that to be due to the increased responsibilities that typically accompany getting older, which makes sense since once you get a “real” job, get into a long-term relationship, add beings to your life that rely on you (i.e., kids or critters), and have bills, it’s much harder to leave for an extended period of time. What I also suspected but can now personally attest is true is that this statement also refers to the notion that we tend to be more flexible and resilient to the realities of travel, particularly budget travel, when we’re younger.

Overall, my travels so far have been exceptionally smooth. My luggage hasn’t been lost (yet). I haven’t spent a night in an airport due to a delay or canceled flight (yet). I haven’t had gastro-intestinal issues due to food or water containing fauna that doesn’t agree with mine (yet). And, I haven’t lost my passport or credit card (yet). But while smooth, it hasn’t been all sunshine and good, cheap wine.

While in a 6-person dorm room in a hostel in Santiago, Chile, and, more recently, one in Ushuaia, Argentina, I was woken up as a few dorm mates stumbled into the room in the wee hours of the morning after a night of drinking. We all know that it’s impossible for a drunk person, even one with the best of intentions, to be quiet. I don’t know what the other sleeping people in the dorm thought but as I’ve been the well-intentioned drunk person a few times in my life, I figured this was payback so turned over, turned up the volume on my iPod, and fell back to sleep. (My new habit is to fall asleep to music).

In addition to being woken up by drunken dorm mates, my bed was stolen in the hostel in Ushuaia! I’d gone out for a beer with a hostel-mate and came back at midnight (not drunk) to find my stuff (books, towel, clothes) moved from my bed and placed neatly on the bunk above. WTF!?! It’s unspoken hostel code that the presence of a person’s stuff on the bed signifies it’s occupied. Then as I stood there absorbing the situation, the woman asleep in my bed asked me to close the door, presumably because the hallway light was keeping her awake. Since it was late and I wasn’t sure what to do, I moved my stuff from my new bed to my locker and climbed up to sleep. But in retaliation, I only half-heartedly tried to be light-footed as I climbed up the bunk bed. Ha, that’s what she gets for stealing my bed! I also felt a bit vindicated when she too was later woken up by our drunk dorm mates. I left very early the next morning to catch a bus so didn’t get a chance to see who this bed-thief was or figure out her deal. However, by then, I’d reasoned that she was older and likely couldn’t climb to the top bunk. So, I figured that I’d been volunteered to do a good deed which would surely be repaid to me in the future.

After that fun night, I got on an early bus to Punto Arenas, Chile. I actually didn’t mind that it’d be a 12-hour ride. I figured I’d use the time as “Tannika time” and catch up on my daily journal, listen to music, sleep, write my next blog about Antarctica, ponder life. As it turns out, I had more “Tannika time” than expected. We were delayed for 4 hours at a ferry crossing. Apparently, the local coast guard had stopped the ferry service due to high winds. This wouldn’t have been so bad except that it appeared that there was nothing around! Only a giant sign welcoming us to the crossing of the Strait of Magellan and a boat ramp; no terminal buildings or anything else in sight except a long line of waiting vehicles. After 2 hours, the bus driver informed us that if the ferry service didn’t resume, we’d have to spend the night there, on the bus, parked with all the other vehicles in front of the giant sign, the boat ramp, and nothing else. To make matters worse, while cold outside, the bus, entirely full, was hot and stuffy and there was no running water. So, no water to drink, no water to flush the toilet, no water to wash your hands. I can deal with sleeping on a hot, stuffy bus and not having water to flush or wash but no water to drink!?! I had just run out so y’all know I went into a quiet panic. Fortunately, we all retained our good moods. Nothing we could do about the situation, so no reason to get mad. After a total of about 3 hours of sitting on the hot, stuffy bus with no water, someone thought to ask if there was a place to buy food/drinks nearby to which the bus driver casually responded, yes, and pointed to the right. There was a tiny truck stop-like cafe with snacks, drinks, and working bathrooms literally on the hill immediately above the bus but out of sight. WTF!?! Didn’t he think we would have liked to know that about 3 hours ago? Good reminder to be more proactive and ask questions. Another hour later, now hydrated and stuffed with cookies and chocolate (survival food), we got notice that the ferry was on its way and I made it to my hostel at about 1am and got a good nights sleep.

Don’t get me wrong, my trip so far has been filled with amazing experiences, and lots of good, cheap Chilean and Argentinean wine. And like I said, I realize these are minor annoyances on the scale of possible and probably travel annoyances. These are just a few events that made me realize why being “young” as defined as being someone who’s flexible, resilient, accepting, and positive is imperative for successful extended travel. So, here’s another reason I’m super happy with my decision to start my extended travels now, while I’m still young.

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Argentina: Ushuaia, El Fin del Mundo (Feb 11 to 20, 2015)

What did I do for 10 days at the “fin del mundo” in Ushuaia, Argentina? After my plane from Santiago, Chile (see previous post) landed on a single track runway, seemingly inches from the ocean surface, I shared a taxi to my hostel with Lorraine and David, a Swedish couple that I befriended on the plane. Like me, there are traveling until the money runs out. After checking in to my hostel, I put on my rain gear and set out for an evening walk. It was about 9pm but still twilight. After walking around this new city a bit, along with other strollers, I found a little cafe to enjoy a salad and a local beer, a Beagle Golden Ale (who’s namesake is the famous Beagle Channel which fronts Ushuaia).

As for the days after that, I spent most of my time exploring the area with a fun-loving trio from the US, Carrie, Candice, and Don, who I met at the hostel. We day hiked to nearby Glacier Martial, did a 3-day backpack on the Camino de la Turbera through the mountains and canyons behind Ushuaia (the southern side of Parque Nacional de Tierra del Fuego) with a side trip to Lago Tempano, celebrated the national holiday of carnival enjoying lots (and lots, and then a little more) of Argentinean wine while watching a local parade, and hanging around town. I even got my first lesson in fire throwing (minus the fire of course) from Candice, a seasoned pro.

While I was tempted to join my new friends traveling north to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (my next destination), I decided to spend a few more days in Ushuaia. And holy crap am I glad I did! I ended up booking a last-minute 13-day cruise to Antarctica (pics coming in the next post). I’m also glad I stayed as I got to do another day hike back to Lago Tempano and then to Lago Encantada with my German friend, Karen, and hang out a bit with three wild and crazy guys, David, Michael, and James, from Australia, Romania, and the UK. Too bad I had to turn down their offer to join them driving their rental car north to Punto Arenas cuz it would have been a blast, but Antarctica called.

Ushuaia is a safe, clean, charming little city (population 56,500). Besides the wonderful people I befriended, all of whom I hope to see again in the future, what stands out the most about Ushuaia is its location between the Beagle Channel and gorgeous snow-capped mountains (my favorite kind of place as you know).

Here are a few photos from my time in Ushuaia. Click the link to see the full photo album:  https://goo.gl/photos/KMQVQwebjb1X2LvG8

Enjoy!

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Travel notes: recommend Cruz del Sur Hostel (although tiny kitchen and a bit noisy) and Los Lupinos Hostel (large kitchen, rooms upstairs); tap water is potable (no treatment needed); can use collectivos to get to Camino de la Turbera trailhead (7 pesos); can easily get high exchange rate (higher than national rate) around town (better to bring lots of US $$ to exchange and pay cash for everything); recommend Ushuaia Turismo (Daniella) to book Antarctica cruise.

Chile: The Vibe of Santiago and Valparaiso (Feb 5 to 11, 2015)

How did I spend 7 days in Santiago? Well, for the first day, I continued living la pura vida, Costa Rica style (see previous post), and just chilled. After a long day of travel to Santiago via Panama, I arrived at my hostel at 1:30am only to find it without windows or charm. So, after breakfast, I used the spotty wifi to find a new hostel and made the short walk to a new hostel full of windows, charm, and lots of shaded chill space (Happy House Hostel). Now settled in my new Santiago home, I enjoyed the vibe for the day, chilled, stocked up on some groceries and chatted with some new friends.

Refreshed, I spent the rest of the week exploring Santiago: a wonderful art museum, gorgeous city parks and plazas, a few churches, a few bars, and lots of people watching. I also did a fun day hike to the Glacier San Francisco (about 2 hours SE of Santiago) with a fun brother & sister duo from New Zealand (their sibling interaction was very much like mine and Jabal’s) and enjoyed good wine, food, and company at the hostel with fun peeps from France (a documentary film maker) and Canada (a feed corn scientist). And on the day before leaving, I explored the lovely, coastal city of Valparaiso with my new Canadian friend.

Santiago is a lovely, modern, clean city with a welcoming charm but what stood out the most about this city, and Valparaiso, was the amazing street art, both the quality and the quantity. I was told that street art is a form of communication between residents of many Latin American cities, particularly as a way to transmit political views and allegiances. This is not unlike other cities, but what is different from US cities at least, is that street art is legal and encouraged in various forms including murals (as pictured below) and what we would call graffiti. For me, the charm and vibe of both cities is defined by the amazing, colorful, soulful, playful street art. Enjoy!

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Travel notes: can take bus to/from airport (about $3 RT); recommend Happy House Hostel; tap water in Santiago is good (no treatment needed)

Costa Rica: Living la Pura Vida in Playa Grande (Jan 28 to Feb 5, 2015)

How did I spend 8 days with Steve in Playa Grande, Costa Rica? Walking the beach, watching pelicans and terns soar over the waves, searching for shells, exploring tidepools, playing in the surf, searching for tracks of nesting leatherback turtles, drinking fruity cocktails and local beer, eating delicious food, including lots of local seafood, meeting Steve’s wonderful friends who are both locals and expats, taking siestas in the heat of the day, enjoying fabulous sunsets….in short, embracing la pura vida. Which after all the packing and planning I did in the weeks before leaving the US, was exactly what I needed! Some of you know that sitting still is tough for me but here, it was easy, likely due to the company and the amazing location. Steve’s place is beautiful and very close to the beach. Check it out! http://www.apartamentosveranera.com

If you get the chance, visit Playa Grande and live la pura vida!

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